Nairobi's Historic Estates: From Fame to Forgotten Slums

Once a prestigious neighbourhood along Jogoo Road, Kaloleni estate has seen a drastic decline over recent decades.

The area, which was once home to notable figures such as independence hero Tom Mboya, first Vice President Jaramogi Oginga Odinga, and former Ugandan President Milton Obote, garnered a reputation akin to that of modern-day affluent neighbourhoods like Runda or Karen. Even Barack Obama Sr., the father of former US President Barack Obama, was a resident following his return from overseas.

Michael Ouma, a resident of Kaloleni for 40 years, reflects on the estate's former glory, stating, "This place was well planned, with regular garbage collection, piped water supply, and well-maintained lawns. Living here was a privilege, and we were highly sought after in the dating scene. Now, it's a slum."

The contrast is stark as the once-charming houses now display unplanned extensions with iron sheet structures to accommodate larger families or rental needs, severely detracting from their original aesthetic appeal. Jeff Kageni, another long-time resident, reminisces about Kaloleni’s vibrant football culture fostered by its proximity to City Stadium.

"Weekends were always exciting, and many football legends lived here," he notes.

Kaloleni’s plight reflects a broader trend observed in several historic estates across Nairobi, as national and county governments pursue new housing initiatives. In some cases, these modern schemes have obscured the rich histories of the neighbourhoods involved. For example, Woodley estate, established in the 1950s, once accommodated prominent figures including an Olympic athlete, a vice president, and numerous ministers.

The estate is currently undergoing redevelopment through affordable housing programs, resulting in the demolition of historic apartments for the construction of multi-storey buildings. Barack Obama Sr. lived at house number 118 with his wife, Ruth, following his divorce from Anne Dunham, President Obama's mother. House number 113 hosted independence hero Achieng’ Oneko, along with other distinguished individuals like former Nyando MP Onyango Midika, former Yatta MP Gideon Mutiso, and athlete Billy Konchellah.

The estate's history is marred by tragedies as well; Charles Sosah, a naturalized Kenyan activist, was fatally shot in 2001, with his murder remaining unsolved. Furthermore, former Gem MP Otieno Ambala died under questionable circumstances in prison after being arrested following a failed election in 1983. Ziwani estate, established in the 1940s, has experienced a similar decline, once regarded as a desirable area but now facing significant challenges.

Retired civil servant James Okwara, who lived in Ziwani for 20 years, recalls that the deterioration began in 1978 when organized garbage collection was halted. Efforts to revitalize the area, such as those attempted by former Nairobi Governor Mike Sonko, have faced staunch resistance from residents, thwarting plans for high-rise affordable housing.